Wagamama Salmon Teriyaki Soba

Wagamama salmon teriyaki soba is priced at £19.60 and carries 994 kcal, the biggest calorie count on the entire teppanyaki page. A teriyaki glazed salmon fillet over teppan fried soba noodles with mangetout, bok choi, onion, chilli, beansprouts and sesame, and a small bones advisory that comes with any cooked fillet.

Salmon and teriyaki is the pairing the glaze was born for. The fat in the fish stands up to the sweet lacquer the way lean chicken cannot, the surface caramelises into a mahogany crust, and the flesh underneath stays soft and rich. That richness is also where the calorie figure comes from: nothing on the plate is fried heavier than its siblings, the fish simply brings its own oils, and they are the kind dietitians approve of, omega 3s included.

The numbers read like a trade offer. Highest calories of the trio at 994 kcal and the highest salt, against 45 g of protein and fish oils the other two plates cannot match. The price at £19.60 sits between the chicken and the steak, published by wagamama, with the usual location movement. The small bones warning means eating with ordinary fillet care rather than fork shovelling.

On how much is the salmon teriyaki soba, the sensible comparison is against restaurant salmon generally, where a glazed fillet with noodles at this figure holds up well for a chain. It wants company that will not compete: edamame to start, nothing fried beside it, and sparkling water or the positive juice in the glass. Among wagamama teppanyaki dishes it is the closest thing to a special occasion plate.