Wagamama Steak Teriyaki Soba

Wagamama steak teriyaki soba tops the teppanyaki page at £21.50 with 864 kcal on the plate, the most expensive noodle dish wagamama serves. Teriyaki glazed steak over teppan fried soba with mangetout, bok choi, onion, chilli, beansprouts and sesame, and the section's biggest protein figure at almost 50 g.

Steak on a teppan is the dish this style of cooking was invented to show off, seared hard on iron, rested, sliced against the grain and lacquered in the soy and mirin glaze. Against the salmon version it eats leaner and more savoury, the glaze reading darker on beef than it does on fish, and the chilli through the vegetables lands sharper without the salmon's fat to soften it. The noodles underneath do their usual quiet smoky work.

The case for the price is in the numbers: 49.5 g of protein is the most on any wagamama noodle plate, the calories at 864 kcal sit below the salmon version despite the bigger flavour, and the salt stays mid table for the section. The case against is sitting one line above dishes at three quarters of the figure. Both cases are honest, and the price is wagamama's own, published, not estimated.

For anyone weighing how much is the steak teriyaki soba against a restaurant steak generally, a glazed steak with noodles and vegetables at £21.50 reads fairly against high street steakhouse pricing. Treat it as the table's centrepiece: beef brisket and kimchee gyoza to start only if very hungry, otherwise edamame, and the ginger kombucha stands up to the glaze better than wine by the glass tends to.