Wagamama Pinot Grigio Blush

Wagamama's pinot grigio blush is estimated at £27.50 (est.) a bottle, the rosé seat of the list: pinot grigio pressed with brief skin contact into a pale copper pink, gently fruitier than its white sibling and the wine that handles the menu's spice best. Unpublished pricing; this site's estimate, marked est.

Blush wines earn their place beside heat: the touch of fruit sweetness flatters chilli where dry whites sharpen and reds collapse, which makes this the bottle the firecracker tables should actually order. Cold, easy and unserious in the best way, it is also the terrace wine of the list.

Vegan marked, priced with its siblings, it converts the rosé sceptic more often than the rosé loyalist expects. The spicier the table, the better its case; the sake and prosecco are its only rivals at the hot end of the menu.